SB12.3 Kit - Looking for feedback on kit

**Basshunter** · 08-17-2011

I'm new to the forum, and this is my first post. I started construction of the SB 12.3's. The parts are cut out and milled. I'm waiting for the speakers to go to the next step. I have a large listening area and an HT system, so these will be for music connected to the "B" speakers in the same room. Thats the plan now anyway.

**Basshunter** · 09-08-2011

Originally Posted by kennethloy

The advantage of building this kit is you have numerous options.

After experimenting and listening to the various design options provided for the SB12.3, I have now concluded that the best option is still the original option with padded resistors to tweeter and mid range.

This provided the smoothest sound and also better clarity and detail. John got it absolutely right with this option.

Problem is now I have some expensive caps and inductors lying in my shed.

What is a "padded" resistor? Are you saying that one of the offered cap options is more desirable? Or that what is designed is the best combination?

**kennethloy** · 09-10-2011

Sorry for the confusion. It just mean resistor.

What I was trying to say is option 1 has the best sound for me.

I was always of the opinion having a resistor in series will degrades the sound.

My original preference was to run full blast without resistors.

**SciFiDogSD** · 09-10-2011

You should maybe experiment a little! A resistor may not allways degrade sound(depending on where it is placed), but help blend tweeter and woofer more smoothly. Ceramic resistors are inexpensive and can allways be replaced with more quality ones such as Mills for IE:

**AlexanderTD** · 09-11-2011

It would be interesting to hear more opinions about SB12.3 crossover from those with experience. Some people i showed it to criticized it a lot. Mostly because they consider any high-order crossover "evil" (especially 4th). Looks like Zaph is not afraid of 4th order though, even uses it in ZRT

**SciFiDogSD** · 09-11-2011

I'm not afraid to use a 4th order x-over and in some cases they are necessary! Daytons 6" Reference driver is a good example, if you don't cross it low with a steep 4th order it is pretty ragged and hard on the ears! 2nd & 3rd orders will just not do the job sometimes!!! This may well be true with other metal cone drivers as well! What is scary about a 4th order is the cost, they can get pricey in a hurry~lots of parts:>)

**Basshunter** · 09-11-2011

I have a question I'd like you fellows to weigh in on. Recent hearing tests have shown I don't have much reception above 14,000 hz. I'm building the 12.3's and wonder how much attention I really need to give the tweeters with reference to the cap options. Build them with the standard caps, or upgrade for some future listener? Zaph says these go to 25000. Heck, I'll never hear that, but I want them to sound right.

**kennethloy** · 09-11-2011

Why I chose the 12.3 kit is because of the low end. I find that for smaller speakers, I tend to crank up the volume to try and get more bass and this in turn increase the treble loudness and can be hard on the ears but with the SB12.3 I find myself never having to increase the volume to enjoy my music. Also I replaced some of the mids capacitors in series with Mundorf Supreme. Yes, the cost for the cross over can be more expensive than the drivers.

**SciFiDogSD** · 09-11-2011

Basshunter~Go to this link www.humblehomemadehifi.com/cap html! You decide!! Not all will agree with this guy, but to each their own!! I've allways liked Erse, a good reasonable priced Cap as are the Dayton's and have used the Dayton 1%'s on occasion and they measured on the spot and performed quite nicely...